Involving customers in the design of a product after release is a practice fraught with reputational dangers, but it can also ensure the delivery of a better product in short order. The Ender 3 has now had many of its initial engineering mistakes corrected, and the printer delivers high-quality output in the right hands, all at an amazingly low price. Most 3D printers are either fully constructed or come as a kit, but the Ender 3 arrives somewhere in the middle.
Ender 3 and CR-20 Dual Z Upgrade Kit
However, you do need to finish the frame, add the PSU, mount the Y axis and complete the electronics cabling. Creality provides a full toolkit for the printer, including a Hex key set, a couple of small spanners, a screwdriver and even some modelling snips.
In addition to the tools and spares is an 8GB microSD card with documentation, software and demo files. If you are wondering if the generosity of Creality has a limit, it does, and this shows in the tiny sample amount of bundled filament. As 3D printer designs go, the Ender 3 is a reworking of the same concept that Creality developed with the previous Ender models and the CR series machines.
Another cost reduction exercise is found on the extruder, which employs a Bowden design. Early Ender 3 owners complained that the connector at the hot end would push the flexible tube out, due to friction, causing a head blockage.
The sheet is thin enough that you can flex it, popping off prints easily. And there certainly is plenty to learn for anyone starting out in 3D printing for the first time. Current page: Introduction and design. TechRadar pro IT insights for business.
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Creality Ender 3S dual Z axis lead screw upgrade kit for Creality Ender-3 pro 3D printer
Our Verdict Involving customers in the design of a product after release is a practice fraught with reputational dangers, but it can also ensure the delivery of a better product in short order.
For Cheap High-quality output Good build volume. Against Still has a few flaws Some assembly required. Introduction and design Software, performance and verdict. There are a few we need to mention.Not a member? You should Sign Up. Already have an account? Log In. To make the experience fit your profile, pick a username and tell us what interests you.
We found and based on your interests. Choose more interests. After retightening the nozzles, checking the tubing length into the hotend, etc. I think it is a result of some of the standby settings Cura uses which retracts and cools the unused extruder while the other is in use. I realized the spring in the extruder block is supposed to be installed in a different manner so that it could be compressed more by tightening one of the supporting screws. After making this change, and adding some additional force to the extruder bearing, the filament is being keyed a lot deeper.
I also switched to some white filament, and haven't noticed the under-extrusion issue anymore, so it may have been something about the blue filament It seemed like even by hand the blue filament was harder to extrude. I'll try the blue filament again with the tighter extruder block spring and see if I still have the under-extrusion issues.
Ooze shield doing it's job:.
Ender 3 Dual Stepper Motor Z Axis
I'm pretty sure the root issue is 'heat creep', where the heat breaks get too hot and filament partially melts too high up in throat where it deforms and gets clogged if you google 'hot end heat creep' or 'heat creep chimera' you'll find a lot of info about why this happens and how to fix it. I've tried getting a 30mm 24V fan that will mount directly on the heatsink instead of ducting the 40mm fan and that didn't make any noticeable difference.1900 farmhouse renovation
I've tried both the titanium and ptfe lined SS heat breaks that came with the kit and they both have the same issue. I also just went ahead and ordered the legit chimera heatsink and heat breaks which will hopefully Standard Tesselated Geometry - View all 10 files. View all 17 components. Thermistors held in by washers now.
Socks on the heater blocks. The hardest part of installing the hotend was probably getting the two nozzles as level as possible. Finally was able to mount both steppers with their extruder frames. It might be worth getting a more powerful stepper for the z-axis eventually, as it has substantially more weight now.Choose a file. Save Review. Save Question.
Save Video. Save Photo. You must be logged in to join the discussion. Show everything Show all reviews Show all questions Show all videos Show all photos Show helpful positive reviews Show helpful negative reviews Show unanswered questions. It may not be a MUST have, but it sure makes mine work much better than it did originally.
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Creality Ender 3 Pro Dual Extrusion Mod
Thanks for letting us know. If you can point us in the right direction This post was Flag for removal. The kit does exactly what I needed it to do, remove the cant of the X axis bar.Park ha na
My biggest complaint about the product is the Dibond support for the tensioner pulley. I was expecting a higher quality of material for this piece, i.
The finish work on the Dibond was awful. It looked like it was hand cut and not done very well at all. I cleaned it up but I will probably find someone to make a new plate for me as it is embarrassing to have this piece of aluminum covered plastic on my pride and joy. Tim Hoogland — January 19, Thanks for the feedback on the tensioner part. Easy to install kit everything fits, if your looking for an easy way to add duel Z drive to your printer this will do the trick.
Justin B — July 24, Tim Hoogland — July 24, JimH verified owner — March 7, I noticed my Ender3 gantry was starting to sag. Even after leveling and adjusting it just a few prints later it was sagging again. Following the instructions they provide on the support site, with lots of pictures, it was a quick and easy install.I've been thinking about this idea for a while and I've seen a few solutions but they all seemed less than idealeither you have to move the display screenmove the power supply or use a belt drive.
Now its been pointed out to me that the Ender 3 if its properly adjusted does not require this modification and to be honest I've never suffered from a sagging X axis beam but I'm a professional mechanichave my own lath and mill and build replica WW2 Airsoft guns as a money making hobbyso I'm quite able to properly set up my Ender 3however it nags at my engineering OCD that its only lifted and lowered at one end.
To this end I designed a mounting system that you can find here in my things.
Just so you have the full picture i have the Creality V1. Running dual stepper motors off a single driver is a very normal thing on 3d printers so I'm not sure where I'm going wrong.
I read that wiring the steppers in series gives more torque but less speed and is ideal for Z axis but its not a common thing to do and far from usually necessary. Any ideas? I tried the belt-driven dual-Z-rod product and had lots of problems so I went back to the original setup.
I later discovered that my X-axis rail was not exactly aligned where the rail is attached to the left and right wheel carrier plates, which caused intermittent binding. Once that was corrected my Z issues have "virtually" disappeared my OCD issues here - nothing's perfect enough. I'm contemplating reusing the dual Z-rods but putting two steppers at the top as opposed to the bottom or off to the side.
I have the stepper signal splitter on hand already. Also, with dual Z-rods the need for the outboard wheels on the X-axis carrier may not be quite as imperative, but I haven't checked that out yet. I've already relocated the power supply, so that's not an issue for me.
The only downside to me is that you won't be able to just hand-turn the Z-rod to move the Z-axis - you'll always have to use the steppers, As far as I can tell. There is a single stepperdual z axis that includes a slight offset bracket for the power supply.Adibou 2 english
A little late to the party, but here's something to think about. Similar but not exactly the same, anyways Obviously 2 Z motors here, so I used your typical splitter board, one connection to main board, splits to two z motors generic on amazon. Well, I do calibration of e-steps, check extrusion multiplier, perfect.Sign in. Sign in with. Money Back Guarantee Refund in 15 Days.
Apply To Ender3 and ender 3 pro The spindle is perfectly straight and the materials are good quality. Q: The motor was spinning opposite direction to the original on my ender 3 pro. A: Some buyers may confront with such problem due to different batch Creality 3D printer. Change the pins in the wire connector mirrored Will solve this problem.
Q:The top stabilizers arn't aligned with the leadscrew position. A:Try to loose the brass Nut and at same time move leadscrew until they are working smooth.
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